Chef David Smith sent out succulent pan-fried medallions of veal accompanied by tender calves sweetbreads (the real reason I switched main courses), roasted organic tomatoes, cocotte potatoes and further embellished with a lush Madeira and thyme-flavored sauce. Rolaine, my wife, went to the fish side, choosing the Dover sole, plated with fresh new potatoes and broad beans. It was her second gustatory encounter in six days with her favorite fish, and it was hard to make a distinction between the two. Both, we agreed, had been worth the journey across the Atlantic, as it would have been hard to match either of them back in New York. With dinner, we shared an outstanding 2003 Galpin Peak Tête de Cuvée Pinot Noir from Bouchard Finlayson of South Africa, whose wines I had enjoyed previously on a visit to Cape Town and have since located at quite reasonable prices in New York.