On my second visit to A Voce, I really just intended to have the spaghetti with local ramps, American speck and Parmesan and a glass of the 2004 Gérard Tremblay Chablis — two things I instantly craved as I finished my first meal at A Voce. But alas, who are we kidding?! It’s hard to pass up the rest of the menu when it’s just so fabulous. But really, if I could only choose one thing on the menu, there’s no doubt it would be this version of spaghetti carbonara. The speck, a nice smoked ham, has just the right amount of saltiness and is not overpowering. Compared to pancetta, the speck makes the dish seem lighter than other carbonaras and pairs better with the fresh peas and ramps. It is ramp season so all the chefs are using their creative juices to incorporate this yummy herb on menus. The use of ramps in the spaghetti gives it a flavor that no other carbonara has and can compete with. It’s just a stellar choice. I swear the next time I come back I am just getting this and nothing else… or at least I will try.
Editor’s PickCelia Sin-Tien Cheng | May 22, 2006