The roasted veal sweetbreads were part of the del mercato menu because they are cooked with fresh and pickled ramps and morel mushrooms, which also are in season right now. Growing up as a child in Taipei, I always ordered a filet mignon with morel sauce from my favorite restaurant, so I have a special attachment to these slightly bitter tasting mushrooms. As with the spaghetti, the ramps just really shine and add a special fresh flavor to a dish that otherwise could seem exceedingly rich. It’s still rich since we’re talking about sweetbreads, but the ramps contribute a certain levity.